HowTo ·

The Ultimate Upgrade: Installing AVC's New and Improved Insulated Subfloor System

Hey everybody, Matt here for AVC and welcome back to the shop!

The core of any successful van conversion is a robust, well-insulated floor. That’s why we’ve completely redesigned our best-selling insulated subfloor system. We’ve stepped up our manufacturing quality, improved the materials, and—most importantly for the DIY builder—made the installation process simpler and more forgiving than ever before.

If you’re ready for the quietest, warmest floor possible, stick around, because we’re diving into the installation of our new insulated subfloor!

Get your insulated floor here.

 

Why We Improved: Quality and Precision

 

For years, we relied on pre-manufactured structural insulated panels. However, we noticed the quality dropping over time. To ensure every customer gets a perfect product, we brought the manufacturing process in-house.

  • Premium Materials: The new system uses a superior 1/2 inch Baltic Birch layer (an upgrade from the older OSB) bonded to a 1 inch polyisocyanurate foam insulation layer. We control the lamination process for a tighter, more durable bond.

  • Perfect Fit: We now work directly from Ford CAD models, which allows us to route the insulation layer to fit the grooves of your van floor with absolute accuracy. This makes the dry fit of the panels perfectly seamless.

 

New Tech: Overlapping Seams and DIY-Friendly Glue

 

We’ve introduced two major improvements to solve the most common pain points for our DIY customers:

 

1. The Overlapping Seam

Our old system used a simple butt joint at the seams between panels, which sometimes required sanding or filler for a perfect finish. The new system features a complex, CNC-milled overlapping seam.

  • How it Works: The wooden top layer of the front and rear panels slightly overlaps the center panel. This overlapping joint creates a much stronger, tighter bond.

  • Installation: We can apply wood glue to this seam, put a couple of temporary screws through the overlapping wood layers to hold the joint firm while the glue cures, then remove the screws and sand the surface flat.

 

2. The Switch to 3M 550 Adhesive

We recognized that the old spray adhesive was high-pressure and quick-set, meaning you only got one shot to get the placement right. That puts too much pressure on a first-time installer!

We switched to 3M 550 adhesive (the same used for our synthetic floor system), which is applied via a standard caulking gun.

  • Working Time: This glue gives you a 15-minute working time, allowing you to lay down all three panels, check alignment, and shift things around before it skins over.

  • Cure Time: While it means a slightly longer 24 hour cure for us in the shop, it translates to a much more patient, successful installation for you at home. We include one tube of 3M 550 per panel with your kit.

 

Modularity: Step-in Trim is Now A La Carte

 

We also separated our step-in trim from the subfloor packages. This allows us to offer lower price points and gives you more modularity. You are no longer committed to our full trim system; you can buy only the pieces you need or modify the front entry (like integrating with the factory Ford step) without buying the whole kit.

 

Step-by-Step Installation Guide

 

This process is simple, but requires patience for the glue!

 

1. Floor Prep

 

  • Scuff: Use an SOS pad to scuff the floor of the van, removing any gloss for better adhesion.

  • Clean: Dust the floor thoroughly (use an air cannon or compressor) and wipe everything down with isopropyl alcohol.

2. Dry Fit & Marking

 

  • Test: Place all three subfloor panels into the van to confirm the perfect fit.

  • Mark: Once you're happy with the alignment, remove the panels and use a Sharpie to mark the outline of the middle section on the metal floor. This guide will help with glue application.

  • Final Clean: Perform one last blowout and wipe with isopropyl alcohol.

 

3. Glue Application & Panel Placement

 

  • Glue: Apply the 3M 550 adhesive in a criss-cross pattern, making sure to hit both the valleys and the tops of the metal floor ribs.

  • Center Panel: Place the center panel first, lining it up with your Sharpie marks, and give it a solid step to press the glue.

  • Rear Panel: Apply glue to the rear section, including the seam where the overlap will occur. Place the rear panel, pushing it tight against the center section.

  • Front Panel: Repeat the glue process and place the front panel.

 

4. Setting the Cure

 

  • Align: Check all your seams and alignment while the glue is still workable.

  • Weight: Place weights (e.g., boxes, large tools) across all sections of the floor and let it cure for 24 hours.

  • Secure Seams: While the glue is kicking, drive temporary screws into the overlapping wood seams to clamp them together. You can also glue and secure the step support at this time.

  • Finish: After the full cure, remove the temporary screws and lightly sand any small lip on the seam for a completely flat surface.

You are now ready to install your finished vinyl or 2Tec2 flooring!

This is a simple install process that provides maximum insulation and a perfect foundation for your build. If you have any questions about this product or the installation, hit us up in the comments below! If you're ready to order, you can find the link here.

Thanks for reading, and we’ll catch you next time!

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